A couple of years ago, few Bangkokians outside of the Indian community would have known what “coastal Indian cuisine” really meant when it came to naming dishes on the table. Times have changed, and the cuisine is having a moment in Bangkok, thanks in no small part to the emergence of Nila on the scene around a year ago.

 

The coastal Indian specialist opened on the fourth floor of Amari Bangkok and immediately carved out a niche in Bangkok’s dining landscape with its uncommon blend of spices, shunning of more mainstream options, and showcase of the rich, multicultural history of India’s coastal states. The restaurant recently unveiled a new eight-course menu, complimented by an already strong a la carte offering, and a superb cocktail list recently designed by the hotel’s new bar manager. The drinks, too, don’t shy away from the unique cultural blend of spices India’s coastal region is known for—but more on that later. 

 

 

One of the most interesting facets of coastal Indian cuisine is its close proximity to Portugal and the Middle East in terms of spice palette—largely because of the historical trading influence those regions have had on the country for centuries. Take the peri-peri jheenga, for example, where Goan-style prawns snuggle up to Portuguese peri-peri chili peppers to marinate before getting a flaming sear on the open-flame grill (this also makes the dish’s preparation a great bit of dinner theater if you’re seated close to the semi-open kitchen). The result is a smoky, tangy, and somewhat sweet mixture that you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in Bangkok. The menu makes good use of the grill as the courses go on—spice-rubbed grilled chicken from Kerala, truffle lamb chops in Madras curry, to name a few.

 

 

It’s not all meat on the bone, either. As is customary at many Indian venues, there is a vegetarian option for the entire tasting set. Here, expect the same eye for quality and unique spice blends—one standout is the tofu jhol, a Bengali-style tofu curry paired with a spicy pumpkin mash.

 

 

The fierce dedication to coastal Indian ingredients and traditions continues through to the new cocktail list, created by the venue’s resident mixologist. The drinks, many of which mimic classic cocktails but with region-specific twists along the coastalstates, are easily enjoyed on their own—we loved the Goan-style “Nila Sour”—but can also be paired with the tasting menu, which we highly recommend.