Pocket Rocket, the folks behind the likes of Fatboy Izakaya and Kim Jeong Grill, knows how to have fun. From the design to the menu, they create interesting, well-designed spaces that break the mold. 

 

So, when they open a new space like Somsak in Ekkamai, people take notice. Somsak is ostensibly Isaan themed, with plastic bric-a-brac and cutesy touches in every direction. 

 

 

Like a lot of restaurants these days—such as the new Arloy and its theme built on a fictional American expat or the Somtum Champion at E-San from Chalee Kader and Gaggan Anand—Somsak has imagined an inspiration in the form of the eponymous and fictional Somsak. Somsak was a Bangkok cabbie who was scammed, moved to Scotland, won the lottery, and returned home to make food. 

 

How someone loses all their money and then moves somewhere with six pound pints and rent that gives locals nightmares is beyond us, but you get the picture: eccentric, Thai-centric, and wild. The key with this brand is it never takes itself too seriously, but the vibe is a little bit rural, a little bit OTT. 

 

 

So, let’s talk menu, which is substantial. For the appetizers, you’ll find a mix of classic and kitschy dishes throughout—think pla dib with wasabi nam jim and “Esarn Popcorn” in the form of fried crickets. We opted for the bread and butter prawns (B320), which features prawns on a bed of an aromatic seafood butter sauce and two very buttery pieces of toast to mop up your leavings. 

 

You’ll also find plenty in the way of som tum, in the form of the likes of the khanom jeen and sausage Tom Sua and Tum Potamai’s mixed fruit variety. Also on brand is the eight-choice selection for laab and namtok. We opted for the classic larb moo (B180), which comes, of course, with plenty of spice with an added touch of crispy pork skin. 

 

 

From the wok-fried section of the menu, we opted for the crispy chicken pad kraprao (B220), and this was a real highlight: chicken so crispy you can barely get a fork through it and stir-fried basil. And there’s just some that works so well with the chilli chicken in the egg yolk. 

 

You’ll notice above we’ve used the terms “high-end” but you’ll also notice the prices are quite reasonable. That’s part of this brand’s schtick—upscale without an upscale price tag. 

 

 

Coming to us from Chef Andrew Martin, there’s also a grilled section for the big meat lovers featuring the likes of charcoal grilled beef “jaew-vocado” with hangar steak copped with avocado jaew bong (B540) and pork chop with bamboo shoot salad (B440). 

 

But, if you know Fatboy Izakaya, you know these spots like to party, so don’t forget to check out their cocktails, which stick with the Thai and Isaan theme with the booze and the flavors. We tried the very spirit forward whiskey of Buffalo in a Suit (B520) featuring Prakaan whiskey, bitters and palm sugar, but you’ll find much more Thai-centric drinks like the Papaya Affair and the Smash Me Daddy (with Basil).

 

 

At the moment, this spot is open for lunch and from 5-10pm, so don’t go looking at this space for a late night spot, but—maybe it should be? It certainly has the vibes. It’s a big menu you’ll want to revisit, and this is a brand that doesn’t miss when it comes to fun, creative spaces.